What is “heel” and why do we teach it?
“Heel” is a position in relation to the handler, where the dog’s front legs line up with the handler’s front legs. Dogs can be in heel position while in a sit, stand, down and while the handler in motion. Most people think a dog and handler walking in tandem when they think of heeling (the dog moving alongside of you to maintain the position with your front legs).
Heeling can accomplish two goals for us. 1) Dogs that are heeling are automatically walking on a loose leash. Heeling fixes pulling/lunging/sniffing problems. 2) We can use heeling to demand attention from the dog, and in doing so, redirect and replace MANY bad behaviors.
Walking Position
This is your starting position, and the position you will maintain while moving with your dog. Have your right thumb in the hand grip of the leash. Fold 2-3 feet of leash up and hold it in the right hand with the hand grip. Hang both hands naturally by your side. When the dog is in heel position, the leash should form the shape of the letter “J” and go across your body from the dog to your right hand.
Sit Drill
In order to break heeling into bite-sized pieces, we use the sit command as bookends for short stretches of heeling. This is the time to teach sit, if the dog doesn’t know it, or make sure the dog is performing sit to our new standards.
- Bring your right hand towards your belly button, and grab the middle of the leash with your left hand.
- While still holding the hand grip and extra slack, grab the leash just above the snap (at your dog’s collar) with your right hand.
- Let go of the left hand.
- Give the “Sit” command.
- Pull straight up (gently) with the leash, and slide your left hand down your dog’s back from the shoulders to the hips.
- Apply gentle downward pressure with your left hand until the dog folds into the sit position.
- Release pressure on the dog and return to walking position.
What if my dog resists the sit?
Maintain gentle pressure until they give up. Do not get frustrated or correct them, simply wait them out.
What if my dog gets up right after being put into a sit?
As quickly as possible, repeat the steps above to replace them in the correct position, but do NOT give the sit command. Repeat as necessary.
What if my dog already knows sit?
If your dog knows sit, you may not need to complete the entire drill. It is important that your dog learn that upward pressure means sit, so continue to do that. If your dog sits when you ask, simply return to walking position and continue. If they do not, continue with the drill to help them get into position. Often, even when the dogs know sit, they need help to sit in heel position promptly when asked, because we’ve added criteria to the command.
Heel Drill
- Start with the dog sitting in heel position, and your leash in walking position.
- Give the command “Heel,” and step off with your left foot.
- Walk three steps, and then start the sit drill. The dog should be seated at your side when you come to a complete stop.
- Repeat
Below is an example of the Heel/Sit drill with a dog that has previously learned the sit command. Notice that Ryan is prepared to follow through with the sit drill each time he stops.
Below is an example of a dog that needs lots of help learning to sit in heel position. There are no corrections in this phase of training. Be patient, calm and repeat the sit drill as necessary.
*Longe Line Test*
Before teaching the heel and sit commands in distracting environments, dogs should have passed the Longe Line test. Dogs on a 15 ft lead should move within six feet of handler between two points in a new location. If your dog has not passed the Longe Line test, continue working on that before practicing adding distractions or training turns to the heel and sit drill.
Heeling Turns
In order to use heeling to accomplish the two goals mentioned above, we need to make the exercise challenging for the dogs. The easiest way to do that is to teach them to heel while changing directions. Below are a list of the four turns we use during training. The most important thing to remember during heeling is that the leash should not be tight for any length of time. The leash *will* get tight during heeling, but leash pressure should be as short as possible (only long enough to redirect attention). No dragging or pulling is allowed by the dog or the human.
Training About Turn
Walk 180° to the right, away from your dog. As you turn, release the extra slack in your right hand and put both hands at your belly button. Move quickly in the opposite direction of your dog, and pick the slack back up as they catch up to you.
This turn is good for when the dog is too far out of position, if they are highly distracted, or if they are lunging towards someone or something. This turn is our “reset button.”
About Turn
Walk 180° to the right, away from your dog. Keep your leash in walking position throughout the turn.
This turn is good for when the dog is wide, or lagging behind.
Left Turn
Turn 90° into your dog. As you turn, pick up the middle of the leash with your left hand, and hold your left hand to your left leg. This will keep us from tripping over the dog if they are too far ahead. Release the left hand and return to walking position after the turn.
This turn is good for when the dog is forged ahead, or crowding you.
Right Turn
Turn 90° to the right, away from your dog. Keep your leash in walking position throughout the turn.
This turn is good for when the dog is wide, or lagging behind.
Intense Heeling
When your dog is distracted, excited, anxious, etc you can use heeling turns to get them to focus. Simply start walking at a brisk pace and change direction every few steps. It does not matter what turn you use, just keep turning.